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Observer Food Monthly - July 2007
A former Victorian deer-keeper’s lodge deep in the rolling wooded hills of the Bowland Forest to the south of the Yorkshire Dales, this has the shabby grandeur of a frayed Jermyn Street shirt. The usual suffocating good taste of the gastropub has been rejected. The bar with its heavy red curtains sells three cask ales and majors on Norfolk kippers. It has a magnificent wine list, a daily chalkboard menu of locally produced food and all the broad-sheet newspapers available, plus the current edition of The Beano.
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