Waitrose Food Illustrated - December 2004

To reach Whitewell, you must travel along miles of scenic country roads not unlike the ones Postman Pat would use. Even if you’re armed with a good map and first-rate sense of direction, leave plenty of time for the journey; it’s almost inevitable when driving up hill and down dale to this pretty hamlet that you’ll take a wrong turning.

When my parents and I managed to find the place, we stepped inside to find a bar with a cracking open fire and the hotel reception, which, unusually is combined with a rather well stocked wine shop. As we weren’t staying the night, we took a quick shufti round the characterful rooms (from £110). Each one has beams, traditional furnishings and a deep bath, the perfect place to get cosy on a cold winter’s night. Most impressive is the Riverside Suite, whose unspoilt views took in the Pennines and the River Hodder.

After our inspection, it was back downstairs to eat. We started with a perfectly sweet cherry tomato soup with delicious homemade bread (£3.40) and a hefty portion of roast aubergine and goat’s cheese tart (£5.80), its richness balanced by a rocket and balsamic salad.

We then tucked into a Whitewell fish pie (£8.95). This is the dish – flaked, poached haddock and plump prawns in a rich, creamy sauce – for which the Inn is best known, and with good reason. We also tried fillet of sea bass with spicy squid (£12.50), which, for me, weren’t the ideal pairing, though both were fresh and perfectly cooked.

As for pudding, the homemade ice-creams (£4.29) included an unbelievably good marmalade version, but it was the sticky toffee pudding (£4.20) that was the meals highlight, faultlessly cooked to moist perfection.

When we finally found the energy to move to the car, we couldn’t help casting wishful glances towards the comfy rooms upstairs. Next time I’m back this way, I might just get lost and simply be forced to book a room.