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Alastair Sawdays, Special Places to Stay
It is almost impossible to imagine a day when a better inn will grace the English landscape.
Everything here is perfect. The inn sits just above the River Hodder with five-mile views across
blistering parkland to rising fells; doors in the bar lead onto a terrace where guests sit in a
row and gaze upon it. Inside, fires roar, the papers wait, there are beams, sofas, maps and copies of
Wisden. Bedrooms are exemplary and come with real luxury, perhaps a peat fire, a lavish four-poster, a
fabulous Victorian power shower. All have beautiful fabrics, Egyptian linen and gadgets galore; many
have the view – you can fall asleep at night to the sound of the river. There’s a restaurant for
splendid food (the Queen once popped in for lunch), so dig into seared scallops, Bowland lamb, a plate
of cheese or something sweet; there are bar meals for those who want to watch their weight and the
Whitewell fish pie is rightly famous. Elsewhere, a small vintners in reception, seven miles of private
fishing and countryside as good as any in the land. Magnificent.
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