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Good Hotel Guide 2009

Stunningly set, high above the River Hodder, this old inn, owned by the Duchy of Lancaster and managed by Charles Bowman, has views across the Forest of Bowland. Family antiques and old paintings are everywhere, and it has an art gallery. It is liked for the quirky style and food and service in the restaurant and bar. But two readers this year, though 'on balance would stay again' commented on 'the lack of welcome' at Reception, which 'doubles as a retail outlet'. 'This is more a gastropub with rooms than a hotel.' Log fires warm the public rooms, and the busy bar, popular with locals, ‘has delightful ambience’. The riverside dining room 'is a touch more formal'. Local ingredients are used by chef Jamie Cadman in dishes like Whitwell fish pie; roast goose breast with choucroute. The river-facing bedrooms have 'delightful views'; less appealing rooms face the car park. 'No tea-making facilities, but room service starts at 7am'. 'Good breakfasts: freshly squeezed orange juice, good fruit, porridge with cream and honey, full English.' The inn owns seven miles of fishing for salmon, trout, etc. Children are welcomed, and 'many dogs are regular customers'.