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Which Magazine – October
Raising the bar

Gastropubs have been the biggest culinary movement of the past decade, and there are more than ever in the 2009 edition of The Good Food Guide. A pub is often the only course for young chefs wanting to start out on their own. To establish or buy a restaurant is an expensive business. A pub offers a more cost-effective option – while chef establishes a reputation in the kitchen, drinks, bar snacks and, perhaps, a few letting bedrooms will keep the bank manager happy. This has proved such a popular route that it has caused the main culinary movement of the early 21st century, as young chefs rush to build their solo careers in pubs while the growth of new restaurants, especially outside London, has remained slow.

These 'gastropubs' have thrown out the horse brasses and the patterned carpets and offer beer as an option, not as a fact of life. It’s not a bad thing – who wants to return to a time of pub 'fayre' served in bars reeking of beer and tobacco?

And would the campaigns currently waged by celebrity chefs (free-range chickens, locally grown food) have been possible without the rise if the gastropub? Firmly at the forefront of the British food revival, with organic, seasonal and locally grown food as much a part of the gastropub experience as casual surroundings, these pubs can take some credit for introducing the British public to these issues.

The Inn at Whitewell – Offering comfort, real ales and good food.